11/4/2022 0 Comments Stock crack repair![]() ![]() After 24 hours of clamping & drying some sanding to make everything smooth and flush is done and then I've stained and sealed the repaired area to match as best as possible to the original finish. After carefully spreading opened the crack (minimally but just enough for the glue to get in) and squirting in the water-proof wood glue, a few holes were drilled and glue coated wooden pins driven in to bridge the gap. The way I have repaired these kind of cracks in the past is by using water-proof Titebond wood glue in a hypodermic needle, some hardwood "pins" and clamps. Here's an example that had a crack forward of the S&W emblem: Using about 240 - 300 grip sandpaper, while the superglue with the overlying sawdust is tacky, to sand over the crack until it is smooth and you see the superglue disappear or nearly disappear (it might give the appearance of wood grain).įor a through and through crack you'll still be able to see the crack on the backside of the stock but not on the finished side. Quickly, while the superglue is still wet, dust some of the saved sawdust over the moist superglue and let it sit about 10 seconds.ĥ. Use the lease amount of superglue necessary to just barely overfill the crack.Ĥ. On two of the three grip cracks I refinished I used an Exacto knife blade placed gently down in the crack to barely open up the crack just a fraction of a millimeter to facilitate the superglue going deeper into the crack. ![]() Either soak the stocks in acetone for a few hour and scrub with a soft toothbrush (gently sand afterward) or remove the old finish with a very gently abrasive, i.e. Here's a technique I've used about 3 times and I've heard other member cite this technique too (click on below image to enlarge it - I don't think you'll see the crack):Ģ. I then clamp the crack back together, until dry.īTW - when working with any glue/epoxy, it's a good idea to first apply paste wax to the stock's outer surface, so cleanup of squeeze out is EZ.There's a grip/stock restorer/woodworker extraordinaire who goes by DWFAN, if I recall correctly, who is a member of the S&W Forum and I'd certainly take any of his advice over mine. I repair small cracks by drilling along their length, from inside the inletting, one or more small holes at slightly different angles to make a criss-cross pattern of holes/passageways within the stock at the crack, but below the surface, then mixing some sawdust/drilldust from the subject stock with epoxy, and force the mixture down the crack/holes with a toothpick/etc. If the cause isn't not found/corrected, there's a pretty good chance the crack will only redevelop again/further. On most rifles, there's usually some wood/metal clearance at the rear of any tang, usually unseen from outside the stock, to preclude the rear of the tang inletting acting as a defacto recoil lug area. Before any crack repair, I would first investigate/correct the reason why the buttstock forward ears (the "recoil lug" area if you will) didn't support the action/tang enough to keep it from driving into the rear of the inletting, cracking the stock there. ![]()
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